5 October 2016

The Second Disaster: Not Getting To Ipoh


So with a whole 6 months to spend living it up around South East Asia, we are in the lucky position where we can take our time and move at a leisurely pace.

It's for this reason we decided to beak up our journey from the Cameron Highlands to the island of Langkawi with a one night stop over in Ipoh, a small city about 2 hours from the Cameron Highlands. Perfect.

Well, at least, it should have been.

Our bus from the Cameron Highlands left at 10am from the bus station, a happy 10 minute walk from our hostel. Spurred on by the fact we had a short bus ride and the only a couple of kilometers walk from the bus station in Ipoh to our hostel at the other end, we boarded in good spirits.

Those good spirits where soon being thrown from side to side like fruit in a blender as our bus driver turned out to be a complete and utter lunatic. Honestly I thought the guy who drove us up to Tanah Rata was bad, but this guy was something else.

His favorite move was overtaking multiple cars, on a corner, flying downhill.

That and being so close to the car in front I think he could feel its rear bumper with his knees. It was awful, I could neither watch nor stop watching. I spent a little over two hours with my heart jumping up into my larynx.

But that day was obviously not my day to die as finally we rolled into the bus station and the driver shouted "IPOH" at everyone, like a victory cheer over his own death defying driving.

I have never EVER been so relieved to get out of a vehicle - and I've been in a car crash that rolled on a motorway.

We stumbled into the bus station, and as with every bus station, train platform, ferry jetty and plane terminal in Malaysia we were bombarded by people asked us if we needed a taxi.

Luckily for us the answer was no, we had this. We had googled the crap out of Ipoh. We were armed with directions, screen shots, hand written notes and maps.

However, when we started to try and follow our map, absolutely none of the roads looked right and we couldn't see or find any of our points of references we had marked.

We thought maybe we had just walked out the wrong end of the bus station. But obviously things could not be that simple for us.

A quick check on Maps.Me soon showed us the magnitude of our situation. The coach driver had obviously given up on taking us to the bus station that was actually printed on our ticket, the one we had paid for.

Instead he had decided to drop us 15km away. At a bus station near no public transport, where the taxi drivers didn't even know the area our hostel was in, and it was so far away the chances of us walking that far with no map and heavy bags was absolutely zero.

Bastard.

It began to dawn on us that we may never make it into Ipoh, we held an EDCM, Emergency Department Crisis Meeting, and decided we should take advantage of the fact we were in a bus station and may as well just try and find one going to Langkawi and hope and pray that the hostel would have room for us arriving a day early.

As head of Public Relations it was down to me to go and ask one of the many people at the booths selling bus tickets if and how we could get to Langkawi today. I approached the nearest guy and the conversation went something a little like this:

Me: Hello, we need to get to Langkawi today, is there a bus?

Him: wouef;iuwbfnaweck'on.

Me: Pardon?

Him: Last ferry is at 7.

Me: Okay.


He then turns around to the woman at the desk and she starts writing out two tickets. Excellent, I had clearly nailed this, but why did he tell me the ferry time? Surely if this bus went to Langkawi I wouldn't need to know as the driver would know.

Obviously Emma had been entertaining similar thoughts, the guy, however, looked genuinely confused when we started to ask such pestering questions like:

- Where is this bus going to?
- How much is it?
- ARE YOU SURE WE CAN GET TO LANGKAWI THIS WAY?!

To all of these he simply smiled and said yes.

Again, nailed it.

We were then rushed from the counter to a coach that was leaving imminently and less than an half an hour since arriving in Ipoh we were leaving again. Hopefully for Langkawi.

What followed was a 6 hour bus journey, which was awful. We had not planned for such a long trip, we had no food or drinks and very little in the way of entertainment. There were also no toilets. Or toilet stops.

Eventually at 6pm we made it to Kuala Perlis, a ferry port town on the border of Thailand. We then had to make a short walk to the jetty using nothing but our exhausted wits. I can see now why the guy at Ipoh told me the last ferry was at 7pm.

Tickets bought we made our way onto the crowded ferry full of screaming children and spent the next 2 hours going over a less than calm sea to the island of Langkawi.

We arrived, thank god, so near now to the end of our journey. We grabbed a taxi and headed for the hostel.

The Sweet Monkey hostel. We had heard good things from other travelers and it had decent reviews online and after being on the road for nearly 12 hours all we wanted was a place to rest our weary heads.

What we got was a hovel at the top of a narrow flight of dingy stairs. The place was hot and humid with desk fans plastered over the walls and ceilings in place of air-con which blasted you with turbo charged hot smelly air with every step.

Honestly it was the last thing either of us wanted to see. It was very similar to Coziee Lodge, which we had fled in Singapore, except this one was filled with backpackers, which we took as a small crumb of comfort at the time. It turned out, however, that this is somewhat of a drawback as there is an alarming number of backpackers that are self obsessed, obnoxious, vapid, dumb asses that wouldn't know one end of a gun to the other and could only benefit the world by holding said gun and pulling the trigger.

More to come on that later.

Journey from hell aside, hovel filled with inconsiderate idiots aside, Langkawi itself turned out to be wonderful.

Unfortunately, however the next disaster was just around the corner.


4 October 2016

Three Nights in the Cameron Highlands


Going to the Cameron Highlands had been Callum's idea and I'm not sure if it was as much for the outstanding beauty of the area as it was for the significantly cooler temperatures. 

You see, Callum is, without doubt, the whitest person I have ever met. He only has to as much as flick a light switch to get a rosy glow, and five minutes in the sun gives him a face red enough to stop traffic. 

Maybe six months backpacking the Arctic would have been a better choice for him.

Anyway, I was also quite relieved to have a few days away from the scalding 30-something degree temperatures of Kuala Lumpur. I was even more relieved to get away from the millions of mosquitos that had decided to eat me alive on a daily basis, regardless of how much DEET I had doused myself with that day. If I'd jumped headfirst in a vat of 100% DEET, it would have made fuck all difference because I'm essentially catnip for the bastards.

The bus journey to the Cameron Highlands can be best described as like something out of the Simpson's Hit and Run. 


A live action shot of our bus journey to Tanah Rata.
Our bus driver was an undisputed maniac and made the 120 mile journey from KL feel like 120 lightyears. He took bends at speeds I would deem unsafe for motorways, overtook sports cars on blind corners and broke so hard I thought I was going to go through the seat in front of me*.

*Of course there were no seat belts on this bus, so this was entirely possible.

We were both so relieved to make it alive to Tanah Rata (the town we stayed at in the Cameron Highlands) we barely noticed the temperatures were 15°C cooler than we were used to. We just hopped of the bus and legged it to our guesthouse before the maniac could plough us over on his way out of the town.

The Cameron Highlands reminded me a LOT of Bavarian Germany: the mass of green trees, the light drizzle of rain and the kind of weather that makes you want to sit inside under a blanket with a mug of tea all day. Fortunately, the Cameron Highlands is famous for its tea! 

The first day we were there we mainly napped took life at a slower pace, but the second day, we booked a half-day tour of the tea plantations. Our guide took us to the famous BOH Tea Plantations and wherever you go in Malaysia, you see BOH Tea everywhere. I guess it's the equivalent to Yorkshire Tea - oh man, I miss Yorkshire Tea. 

The Tea Plantations were beautiful, there's no doubt about that; hill after hill of green tea bushes as far as the eye could see. However, our guide soon explained that the 600 acres of tea plantation were manned by a workforce of only 40 people. These 40 people are almost solely immigrants from places like India and Bangladesh; they have to sign 3 or 5 year contacts and are paid about RM12 a day - that's about £2. 

We sat in the BOH Tea Cafe, drinking our tea and eating scones (costing us RM22) with mixed feelings for the place. To us, it seemed like slave labour. Our purchase at the cafe had in itself nearly paid 2 people's daily wages. So, how, were they paying their workers so little? Especially as the place was swarming with tourists. 

It was quite sad, really.

The next day, we went on one of the hikes suggested by the guesthouse; in the lobby, there was a board of routes. One of the routes had a note stuck over it, with reviews from TripAdvisor basically saying that there was a creep lurking along the trail who liked to prey on tourists. 
I didn't really feel like going on the walk anymore, but we were assured, the other trails were safe and well trodden, so we went ahead with it and I'm glad we did.

Walking the trail felt like being in the middle of nowhere and I half expected Bear Grylls to pop out of a shrub somewhere. At one point we must have walked underneath a monkey or large bird in a tree and our presence must have scared it off, because the next thing we knew a branch was plummeting from the air towards us. We scattered. Then, THUMP. The branch landed right next to us.

I was beginning to feel like a cat with 9 lives. The bus driver was strike 1. The branch, number 2. 

Amazingly, we didn't get lost on the trail and thankfully, we didn't bump into the forest nutcase either. It was an all-round success. 

We ended the day with a curry from our favourite restaurant in Tanah Rata and prepared ourself for the next day's journey to Ipoh. Sadly, that was not to be a success...

2 October 2016

The Nicest Hostel in Kuala Lumpur


Every now and again in life you stay somewhere - be it a hotel, Airbnb, apartment, whatever - that you just don't want to leave. If I'm being perfectly honest, I didn't think this feeling would happen to us on our travels, because we are primarily staying in hostels, and let's face it, a lot of hostels are pretty awful.

If I was to pinpoint my least favourite aspect of travelling, it would hands down be the hostels. Several times a day I find myself muttering "I'm too old for this," and wondering if I should have saved for another 10 years and just stayed in swanky hotels instead. 

However, in Kuala Lumpur, we hit the jackpot with our hostel. 

We stayed at BackHome Kuala Lumpur and we liked it so much that we decided to stay for another 3 nights, on top of the 4 we had originally booked. Why? Well, there was something really homely* about it. 

*Pun intended.

For £10 a night, I wasn't expecting miracles - especially after the Singapore disaster - but this hostel surprised us both and turned out to be much nicer than a lot of hotels I've stayed at. 

The staff were really friendly and one of the guys (Fadly) even took us on a trek up Bukit Tabur, just 10k outside of the city centre. He also took us for breakfast at a local Indian cafe and introduced us to all the local food; this was when we both fell in love with Tea Tarik. I didn't think anything could beat Yorkshire Tea, but it turns out you can be wrong.

Anyway, back to the hostel. It was clean, tidy and just had a really nice vibe about the place. Even little things, like writing everyone's names on the door in chalk and having a guestbook for everyone to write in, went a long way and made us feel a lot more at home. 






The hostel had a really friendly vibe and we met a lot of people from all over the place: Germany, Colorado, Australia and The Netherlands. Having stayed in a few other hostels on our journey now (one in the Cameron Highlands and one in Langkawi), BackHome was by far the easiest and friendliest place to meet new people.

There was plenty to do if you were lost for things to do in the hostel; there was a movie room, a patio area for socialising and a connecting cafe next door which did the best grilled cheese sandwiches. BackHome also had Macs (pictured) and pretty good wifi - me and Callum got through half a series of Freaks and Geeks on Netflix while we were there. Time well spent.

I was definitely sad to leave the place; we met some really nice people there, the free breakfast was always on point and it just felt like home. 

If you haven't already gaged, I would highly recommend staying here if you're in KL on a budget.